Solo Dining @ L’Ilot Restaurant, Paris

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I usually forget to take a lunch break when I am working from home so the thought of actually dining solo at an actual restaurant last Friday whilst working from home seemed positively decadent. As part of my current 9 to 5 job I sometimes travel to far flung parts of the world and that necessitates getting a visa. As I had to collect my passport from the Indonesian embassy around lunchtime I thought today I should treat myself to lunch in the Paris sunshine. I knew just the place I wanted to try.  A bijou fish restaurant in the 3rd arrondissement that I had stumbled across whilst trying to find le cafe des chats in the adjacent rue charlot. That’s the thing about Paris – it’s a hidden treasure trove of well treasures for this perennial lost girl with a gps! So I spotted, photographed and filed it as a place I wanted to come back and try: L’Ilot or The Island!

ImageLe Lieu/ Location

L’Ilot is located off the busy rue charlot in haut marais by a small square. It does feel a little like a tranquil island. The restaurant itself is tiny reminiscent of a small cabin on the beach, I hazard a guess at Brittany, with whitewashed floorboards, bar stools and four or five tables inside. The walls are covered in that glorious white Parisian metro tiling to add to the light airy feel of the place. The restaurant inside is a little L shape with a small serving hatch in the far wall with the kitchen hidden behind.  It almost feels as if L’Ilot was air lifted from the Brittany coast and plonked on the corner of the square in Paris. Given the glorious early Spring like weather Paris experienced on Friday four tables were set up outside.

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Ambiance / Good Vibes

I arrived at the perfect time for lunch 12.30pm and given an incredibly warm greeting when I said I was here to eat on my own. No problem the waitress said and offered me my pick of tables both inside and out. I opted for inside even though the first rays of early Spring sun felt like being gently caressed by a lover the wind did not.  I perched myself on a stool from where I could survey the rest of the restaurant and watch the comings and goings outside.  The stools are high and ordinarily I would have had reservations of sitting at a table on a stool but it felt perfectly in keeping with the surroundings and after the first 10 minutes I completely forgot that I was sitting on a stool rather than a chair and didn’t miss the chair back in the slightest.

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Les Plats/ The Dishes

The menu is a mixture of fish and shellfish dishes. Whilst the ceviche caught my eye, I decided to go for the set lunch menu of steamed cod in a tarragon sauce with freshly made carrot and potato puree and served with a glass of cold, crisp picpoul. The wine was served quickly with a complimentary carafe of water. As I waited for my lunch, I sat and watched as the tables both inside and out quickly filled up. This place gets busy very quickly.

When my dish came, it was sublime, the cod steamed to perfection and the puree: a happy balance of carrot and potato not completely smooth but with a few chunks of carrots left in. The fish was wonderfully fresh and if I had one observation to make the sauce was a little salty.  Having said that, I find that the French are a lover of salt even more so than the English so I would hate for that to put anyone off from coming here.  The dish was sublime and my taste buds are quite sensitive. In any event better for the food to be seasoned than be bland – quelle horreur! The fish here was fresh, flaky, soft and the portion generous – un vrai régal/ a real delight.

ImageI couldn’t manage dessert but I wasn’t ready to leave this bejeweled isle just yet so to extend the experience by ordering a coffee.  I certainly recommend L’Ilot serving the freshest fish I have tasted in Paris for a while. How do you tell a good fish restaurant – it’s closed on a Sunday and Monday as fisherman don’t fish on Sundays!

Where? 4 rue de la corderie, 75003 Paris

How? metro stop filles du calvaire (line 8)

Open when? Tuesday 19h to 23h30 (for dinner only), Wednesday to Saturday lunch  (12h to 14h30) + dinner  (19h to 23h30)

Pricey? Set lunch a very reasonable €12,50 for the dish of the day + a glass of wine plus I had a coffee at €2 otherwise à la carte

Website: https://fr-fr.facebook.com/lilot.paris

 

No Solo Dining @ Breizh Cafe, Paris

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Pancake day 2014 in the City of Lights and it’s sort of the anniversary of this blog. My second solo outing was to la petite Josselin creperie last year. This year, I thought throw caution to the wind not go back, stay safe – no this is the year where I push forward and try something new and this is where I rant about hating hype! I decided to try Breizh cafe as all the established blogs and restaurant critics rave about this place being a fresh, new way to try the humble crepe combining Asian flavours with a Breton staple or something along those lines.  I’ve even read critics describing the chef as some sort of Picasso. Ok I want a bit of this I thought and what with it being Paris Fashion Week, I wanted to get with the fashionable crowd.

Now here is where I share a mini confession, I did check the opening hours of this Breizh cafe and it did say it was closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Really, but Shrove Tuesday/Pancake Day is always on a TUESDAY it must make an exception, I don’t care how special this creperie is nobody would be shut on Shrove Tuesday even taking into account the French’s _____(fill in the blank!)

I duly schlepped across town to the fashionable Haut Marais where some of the up and coming fashion houses are located. I chased my tail for a while with the map app on my iPhone but finally I found the right street. The street was animated, I saw a crowd as I neared the number and passed the said crowd and was faced with this:

ImageObviously they make so much money the rest of the year and respect the fact that France is a secular country that they don’t do Pancake Day!

Where? 109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris

How?  Line 8, Filles du Calvaire + 5 min walk

Open when? Tuesday to Saturday (and definitely not Pancake Day!!)

Pricey? No idea

Website: http://www.breizhcafe.com/

Solo apero @ L’hotel, Paris

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When the Bullsh_t quota has been surpassed only a cocktail will do is my motto although I am sure Mr Oscar Wilde would say it in a much more succint and wry way. I do so love this quote of his: “we are all in the gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars“. Well Oscar there are no stars this Wednesday night just rain, wind and a healthy dose of misery as I navigated through the streets of St Germain trying to find the discreet entrance to L’Hotel where our Oscar spent his last few years. Discreet it is with a small brass plaque of the man himself adorning the external wall.

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Le Lieu/Location

It’s all about discretion and luxury here. I was greeted with a warm smile and asked for directions to the bar. I was told to walk through the lobby and open the door. I am not sure if he said mind the step or at least he should have. As you step into the circular lobby, it is miniscule, look up. It is something to see and that is all I will say. I nearly fell through the mirrored door as I didn’t see the step. However, I managed to preserve my dignity and entered into pure luxury of velvet seats, leopard print carpet and a tiny bar. It felt as if I was in someone’s boudoir, possibly Mr Wilde’s as there were photos of him scattered around.  The barman told me to sit wherever I would like and so I did in the mini study area ( there is also a separate alcove with more seating) with the faux candelabras by a portrait of the man himself. I was a little out of place with my wellington boots, jeans etc and there were two couples seated having drinks waiting to go to very chic Le Restaurant.

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Ambiance/Good Vibes

As I caressed the velvet seating, I perused the drinks menu and spied the signature cocktail list with suitably Wilde inspired names and after a bit of indecision I decided that I was indeed “Born to be Wilde” or at the very least insane to come out in the rain and wind. The barman, Aghiles, came over to take my order.  There is nothing as vulgar as going to the bar to place one’s order at Le Bar – oh no this is the place to come where the old rules are still in existence: soft lighting, cocktails made properly, service at the table and being left alone to think upon whatever takes your fancy. After my order was taken, I sat back and enjoyed the mellow voice of Nat King Cole -  the background music here is exactly that in the background. There is no need to shout at your companion. As I was solo, I just sat and relaxed and thought a little bit about Mr Wilde.

Les Verres/ Drinks

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My Born to be Wilde cocktail arrived along with some savoury tidbits and I took a sip. Oh la la I certainly might be wild after this cocktail a mixture of: Bacardi Reserve, honey, tabasco and basil.  It certainly pepped me up – strong, spicy with a little dose of sweet. I think I just described myself – ha!  The cocktail was exquisite and certainly very strong!  As I sipped it, I forgot about my woes, the rain and started to feel very very comfortable.  Even the slightly chintzy fittings were all forgiven. 

As wild as I would like to be, it was after all a Wednesday night and I had another two days left of work. I bid the very talented Aghilles and Mr Wilde’s last haunt – L’hotel – à bientôt. I shall be back very soon. It was blissful way to spend 2 hours- as Oscar once said: “I have the simplest tastes. I am always satisfied with the best”.

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Where? 13 Rue Des Beaux-Arts, 75006 Paris

How? Line 4 (Saint Germain des Près or Odeon) + 10 mins walk

Open when?  7 days a week + they stop serving at 1am (Mon to Weds are the quieter evenings, it is busy on the weekend)

Pricey? The signature cocktails are around €15 and if that’s not your thing then choose from the menu: wine, spirits etc

Website: http://www.l-hotel.com/

 

Solo dining @ Liberté Boulangerie, Paris

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After my fabulous coffee at Café Craft, I decided to shake a leg and enjoy the Saturday lunchtime sun. As I was strolling down rue des vinaigriers which really is foodie paradise in the 10th arrondissement, I stumbled across this:

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 At first I thought it was one of those uber chic office outposts in the 10th or maybe a private gathering. However, as I peered through the glass I saw food.

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I wasn’t in the mood to sit down, I really just wanted to eat and walk so I pushed the door and entered Liberté.  There were a couple of low tables, you know the type, not appropriate if you are:

a) wearing low cut jeans; or

b) still recovering from zumba class or a run up the hill; or

c) aware that it’s not the sitting down that’s the problem it’s the getting up with any dignity!

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Anyway, the kitchen is open plan with all kinds of fancy kit and array of pretty cakes, breads, sandwiches etc.  I was about to choose a sandwich when I spied tradition au chocolat! Hold on – such a thing exists: chocolate bread.  I can hear the derision but let me take a moment to explain about bread. There is the French saying a meal without bread is like a day without sunshine or is it wine, I forget. Anyway, before moving to France I liked bread, I wouldn’t walk miles for it but I liked it and could tell the difference between the ubiquitous industrial made sliced bread and a properly baked loaf. Here in Paris, I live above a boulangerie and I wake up to the scent of freshly baked bread. Yes I am lucky however I only buy a tradition from there nothing else as I don’t think their croissants are very good and neither are the cakes. I walk 2km (I have the my-fitness app) on a Sunday to an award winning boulangerie where everything is good. Yes I walk past 5 other boulangeries to go to the award winning one.  Here’s why: bread is relatively cheap in France and not all baguettes are equal even if the price is regulated by the State.  Baguettes are soft and I don’t like them. I choose ‘La tradition” which has a hard crust and a dough that still has a slight pull or bite if you will.

So when I saw this tradition au chocolat, I thought I had died and gone to heaven – a sweet version of my savoury delight! I bought one and figured that I would walk off the calories – my lunch and sweet treat combined into one!

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How was it? Exactly as I like it – the consistency of the tradition with a generous sprinkling of chocolate pieces and that all important bite and chew. There was no acrid after taste or cloying sweetness it tasted like bread with a hint of dark chocolate. I thoroughly enjoyed it and shall be back to buy another soon!

Where? rue des vinaigriers 75010

How? Line 5  – Jacques Bonsergent (or you could walk from Republique)

Open when? Tuesday to Saturday 7h to 20h

Pricey? Regular prices and the tradition au chocolat is €1,30

 

Solo dining @ Cafe Craft, Paris

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What’s the worst thing that can happen when you wake up on a Saturday morning after a rough week at work:

a) being woken up by your noisy neighbours who just can’t seem to get enough of each other?

b) hearing the wind howling outside but knowing that you have to go out for that run round the park?

c) realising you have no coffee left including the stash of sachets taken from various hotel rooms?

The correct answer is c) and frankly mornings are hard enough and the thought of not having a mug of filter coffee to ease my pain was just too much. However, where on earth was I going to get a decent coffee in Paris. Now I hear you chortle as if to say, er you live in Paris try at any café. Here’s the thing, yes they all serve coffee but not the way I like it. I like a full mug, not half a cup, of smooth filter coffee not without the accrid aftertaste and a splash of milk.  There are now places springing up that serve coffee English style rather than this espresso nonsense as fun French foodie fact, if you ask for un café you will get an espresso. You need to ask for un café allongé to get what I call a decent cup of coffee!

Anyway, I had some writing to do and so took myself off to the 10th arrondissement in search of coffee. My first stop was HolyBelly which is supposed to serve  a mean filter coffee but le queue oh la la. I kept walking and went to my favourite street in the 10th – rue des vinaigriers and stumbled across Cafe Craft.

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Le Lieu/Location

Cafe Craft is located a hop and skip away from Canal St Martin in what is fast becoming one of the best foodie streets in all of Paris – Sunken Ship, Liberte boulangerie, L’Agence bar, Piccolo Cugini to name but a few. I had turned down this street not only because I love it but I felt sure I would find somewhere that served coffee Liquid Marmalade style and I did.

Ambiance/Good Vibes

The concept behind Cafe Craft is this: those who work from home can rediscover what it’s like to be social by basically paying €3 for a coffee that then gives them an hour at a shared workstation space where they can plug in their computer and be surrounded by people.  The wifi is free as essentially you are paying for it by drinking coffee or tea.  The lighting at the table is soft, there’s background music playing just at the right level and it almost feels like you are at home just chilling out.

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Service is at the counter and not only is there coffee, I know I am obsessed, but there are sandwiches, muffins and the like.  You can come in and work for an hour or stay for longer. Essentially if you stay for 4 hours or more then you will need to buy more than just a coffee to pay for your little table space.

I have to say I got such a warm reception and explained I just wanted a coffee and he said no problem either I could sit at the middle table if I had come to work or take a table at the side. I had my pick of tables and sat down and relaxed with my coffee. My coffee was exquisite just what I needed to face the afternoon. If you like the coffee, which is expertly roasted in Paris from the roasters – cafe Lomi in the 18th arrondissement, then you can buy it on the way out.

I absolutely loved the vibe of the place. It felt relaxed and the middle bank of desks filled up quickly whilst I was there, there are 12 spaces, however there is a line of tables against the wall if you want to be “alone” rather than seated next to someone.  This place certainly beats the library and the thought of being able to eat whilst I work is heavenly. 

I am definitely coming back soon with my laptop. I arrived at midday and not all the tables were taken but it was a Saturday. I am sure it must be pretty popular during the week!

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Where? 24 rue des vinaigriers, 75010 Paris

How? Line 5  – Jacques Bonsergent (or you could walk from Republique)

Open when? 7 days a week – 9h till 19h (except Sunday opens from 10am)

Pricey? €3.50 for a velvety smooth Ethiopian filter coffee with milk

Website: http://www.cafe-craft.com